Off Shore to Block Island, Sep 2004
Mark Smith and iLean Windward - a 2003 Bavaria 38 Cruiser

Part III: A Light at the End of a Very Long Dark Tunnel.

Finally, Dawn...

Even though my watch was done at 3:00 am, I remained on deck. Our shortened crew caused me to remain for what I had anticipated would be the most difficult time: the few hours before dawn. Everyone was tired, and any slip in attention or diligence could be disastrous. Plus, my normal work week starts at 5:00 am or earlier anyway, so it wasn’t much of a stretch for me to remain topsides for another two or three hours.

Patrick and I switched between helm and watch to keep from becoming dazed and lulled into inattention from the rhythm of the boat and pulling wind. About 4 am or so, I was gazing out towards the north and I was convinced I saw an entire city outline, even though I knew quite plainly that there was none there. I old Patrick about my “vision”, just to make sure we hadn’t accidentally sailed onto the Hamptons!

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The first early signs of the end of a very long night. The moon is visible at the top of the picture, just under some remnants of what had been hurricane Frances. She ended up giving us almost perfect winds.

The wind had remained constant, perhaps strengthening a bit, but the seas had calmed. I was relishing the beauty and comfort of the increasing star canopy above us when I detected the faintest hint of dawn over the starboard bow in the eastern sky: I was momentarily transfixed. I found myself feeling very emotional (I knew I was exhausted) and almost anxious as the light in the east slowly increased. The beginnings of the sunrise were spectacular: faint gray and light-blue light shifting to faint and then brilliant yellows, golds, and oranges. Wow !

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The sunrise was spectacular! Its not an exaggeration to say I felt an incredible sense of relief- no doubt, much exaggerated from too little sleep and an unwelcome encounter in the middle of the night.


My emotions switched with the light, from anxious to hopeful, to redemption: We had made it through the night, crossing some of the most heavily trafficked shipping lanes in the US, at night, in the dark, with the remnants of a hurricane off to the west! OK, maybe a bit overly dramatic, but those emotions and thoughts at sunrise were fueled by an incredible sailing experience mixed with a whole bunch of
tired.

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The next day - on to Block Island! The winds kept up, the seas had calmed, we were out of the shipping lanes: hey, life was good!

Block Island...

The morning was spectacular! Puffy white clouds, plenty of sunshine; The wind grew a bit, but our reefed sails continued to be perfectly in-synch with the sea and winds. The boat seemed to actually glisten (OK, maybe that’s an exaggeration). The entire crew was awake and on-deck by now- even Steve seemed to be in slightly better spirits. We could see the eastern end of Block Island, and off in the distance- a faint bump in the sea: our island destination. Our course would take us to the Montauk bell, and then a turn to the north towards Block Island.

We rounded the bell and estimated our arrival time into New Harbor at about 1:00 PM. It was as if we had ordered the wind conditions the prior day – the wind had shifted to a more ENE heading, which was perfect for us when we changed our course at the Montauk bell! The wind seemed to have increased to about 17 + kts or so. We had plotted a course well off the island to leave us plenty of room around a very rocky shore.

Just outside the entrance to the harbor, we started the engine, headed to wind, furled our sails, and started in. The entrance to New Harbor was actually rather narrow just before it opened up into Salt Pond. We slowed our speed a bit and called into the Marina where we had reserved a transient slip. Once we had are instructions from the dock master, we headed in, gently eased iLean Windward into a spot along a fixed dock, secured her, and stopped the engine.

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iLean Windward is secured on Block Island. Ken (left) and Steve made sure the boat would be safe and remained unscathed at the fixed dock- there was about a 3-4 ft tide. The weather was incredible- could not have possibly been better.

High-fives all around! We had tied up at about 12:45 PM. 18 hrs. 45 mins! We had made excellent time, under sail the entire way, and had out-run (we told ourselves) a major hurricane! (OK, “tropical depression”- the center of which had never been closer than probably 100 miles to us). The weather on the island was absolutely perfect. Warm, breezy, very clear sky. Several minutes after we had tied up, another sail boat came in and tied up close to us. They had come over from Connecticut and had torn a headsail just outside the entrance to the harbor- apparently, the wind had really come up just a few minutes after we had arrived.... more very good fortune for us!

We walked around the island, got some lunch, and walked some more. The crazy summer crowds, legendary on Block Island, were gone and we really did feel like we had the very best block island experience possible!

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Looking NE over Great Salt Pond. The coast of Connecticut (far left) and RI (far right) can be seen in the very distant background. The narrow entrance to the Great Salt Pond (not visible) is on the left side of the harbor.

I think we all still felt tired and somewhat numb from lack of sleep and so many hours under sail; still, we took in the sense of accomplishment that every sailor knows. Sail for an hour, a day, a week- each experience is unique and special. I personally felt such a great sense of pride- not in me, but in the boat! My wife (her name is Eileen- she named the boat) calls our boat my “mistress”- one of the ‘loves of my life’. Well, in any case, I felt confidence in such a fantastic boat- well engineered and well built. I knew this boat and was ready for more adventures! On the day of our arrival on Block Island my thoughts quickly turned to: “stock up boys, a few days rest and it’s off to the next port!”

Early dinner on the boat, then a tired but very happy crew made it an early night. The next day would be a relaxing day to explore the island before heading back. We all had more confidence, I think, as we contemplated the return home: after all, we knew the way.